The plan for the next stage of our trip is to traverse the Rideau Canal (Rideau rhymes with window). This was a change in plans since we heard from many, many people that the Rideau will be much more beautiful then going to Montreal via the St. Lawrence Seaway (and the BIG locks). So we found all the charts and guidebooks and off we went - waving a goodbye to Andrew Appleton who was preparing for his family gathering.
The first stop was to overnight in Kingston’s inner harbor. There were two routes to get there - one a bridge that opened and another that had a clearance of about 12 ½ feet. I was sure we needed to wait for the opening bridge but Bill took down our wooden mast, flags and all and we took a deep breath and went under the bridge. Taking the Rideau allowed us to bypass 5 huge locks in the St. Lawrence Seaway. But it also planted a seed in Bill's mind to try to avoid going through the last 2 large locks in the seaway around Montreal and the Lachine rapids.
We were very fortunate to have gorgeous, although hot and humid, weather until yesterday when we had a few thunderstorms and lots of rain. This pattern may continue for a few days but then, hopefully, we will get some wonderful weather for the last part of our trip.
Anyway, back to the Rideau. The Rideau was conceived in the wake of the War of 1812. It was to be a war time supply route for troops and supplies from Montreal to the settlements of upper Canada and the naval dockyard at Kingston. It opened in 1832. Thousands of Irish immigrants, French Canadians and Scottish stonemasons were among the labourers who helped push the canal through rough bush, swamps and rocky wilderness. Many were also killed by malaria and other illnesses. The canal is 202km (about 125 miles) long. Starting in Kingston, 14 locks raise vessels a total of 50m (about 160 ft) to Newboro, the highest point in the Upper Rideau Lake, 31 locks lower vessels 83m (approximately 250 ft) to the Ottawa River. The lockmasters and their staff continue to operate the locks by hand at most of the 24 lock stations. The locks can accommodate boats up to 90 ft in length and 26 ft. in width. Two of the locks now use hydraulic systems to let the water in or out. In addition, Parks Canada has provided docks, parks, picnic tables, washrooms along the way and near the lock stations. We found the lockmasters and their staff to be polite, interested in helping anyone who needs help in tying up their boat before locking through, catching lines, and providing all kinds of information. We would ask the staff if there was room to dock at the next lock and they would call ahead. The staff was comprised of some senior members but the majority were young men and women who were in college. As we went along the scenery would change from wetlands to granite cliffs to farmland we never had a problem finding a place to stop at night. The locks at Ottawa were truly a challenge. There were 8 consecutive locks dropping us down to the level of the Ottawa River. It was very hot but we made it without a hitch. This experience was wonderful. We met many other boaters, speaking English as well as French. We also met two couples who took us under their wing (this was not their first trip) and before long we were enjoying group dinners together. Nancy and Wayne and Betty and Ray along with Betty’s sister and brother-in-law were truly a blessing for us. I know the entire experience would not have been as wonderful without them. We are hoping to meet up again in Lake Champlain.
It would be to long a blog to mention everything that we did and saw but Bill and I will always remember this part of the trip as a gift. I took many, many photos but they can’t even come close to how we felt along the journey.
August 3rd, 2010However there is one event that will probably be Bill’s highlight of the entire trip. I mentioned above that there was a canal, the Lachine Canal, that bypassed the huge locks on the St. Lawrence Seaway. This canal was opened in 1825 and carried vessels around the Lachine Rapids at Montreal. The 8.2 mile long canal used 5 locks to take a vessel from Lachine to the West of Montreal to the harbor in Montreal. However, the canal was allowed to fall into disrepair after 1959 and sections of it were even filled in. Well, here’s the challenge. When the canal was restored there wasn’t any money to raise the height of the bridges spanning the canal. Any vessel going through the canal must not be higher than 8 feet. Yup, that includes a vessel like ’Interim’. After calling the canal supervisors, visiting the locks and fiddling with ’Interim’ Bill was going to give his all to make the trip and when Bill makes up his mind to do something - well all who know him know what will happen. Catherine and David became partners in Bill’s scheme to lower ’Interim’ profile to get under the bridge. First he took down the wooden
mast-not enough. Then off came the stainless steel binnacle guard - not enough. Next he took off the compass - not enough. Then the entire stainless steel bow pulpit came off - not enough. Finally, he took down the pole that was flying the American flag - and that proved to be enough. ’Interim’ looked pretty awful. The lockmaster came with his measuring stick and low and behold pronounced that we could proceed. We were observed by everyone on the walking paths beside the canal and we were told that no other vessel our size had ever accomplished this. It was a red letter day for Bill, Catherine and David. I, of course was pessimistic but took loads of photos.
We loved cities like Otttawa, Kingston and Montreal and towns like Merrickville. We laughed a great deal especially when the Elvis impersonator came over to me and gave me a great big kiss. We can’t thank our friends Andrew and Denise and Catherine and David enough for making this journey so pleasant. Simon is still waiting for the small bites of melon that totally spoiled him. White water rafting and seeing Sweden’s fireworks display as part of an international fireworks competition were certainly not on our agenda but will always be remembered.
Now we begin the journey home. We will enter the Richelieu River and travel down to the Chambly Canal. From there we will stop at Rouse’s Point to go through customs and enter the United States. I’m sure that this part of the trip, experiencing Lake Champlain, will also be memorable. Our friends and acquaintances have made many suggestions as to where to go and what to see and we hope to get to most of them.
To be continued…..
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